I don't even have any dots. It just immediately boots and gives me the message again.
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(07-02-2017 04:59 PM)atracks Wrote: [ -> ]I don't even have any dots. It just immediately boots and gives me the message again.
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Never mind. Just about to format my PC. Thanks for the help. I can be a bit retarded at times. RIP all those steam games I had downloaded.
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(07-02-2017 04:59 PM)atracks Wrote: [ -> ]I don't even have any dots. It just immediately boots and gives me the message again.
You just need to interrupt the Windows boot process at any point after the BIOS/UFEI screen. Doing this twice should give you the recovery options. I don't see how you're failing to do this.
(07-02-2017 04:59 PM)atracks Wrote: [ -> ]Never mind. Just about to format my PC. Thanks for the help. I can be a bit retarded at times. RIP all those steam games I had downloaded.
I don't get it. If you're going to format, that means you have a Windows installation drive. I also gave you instructions for booting into safe mode using a Windows installation drive. There's no reason you should have to reformat.
(07-02-2017 05:27 PM)ToastyX Wrote: [ -> ] (07-02-2017 04:59 PM)atracks Wrote: [ -> ]I don't even have any dots. It just immediately boots and gives me the message again.
You just need to interrupt the Windows boot process at any point after the BIOS/UFEI screen. Doing this twice should give you the recovery options. I don't see how you're failing to do this.
(07-02-2017 04:59 PM)atracks Wrote: [ -> ]Never mind. Just about to format my PC. Thanks for the help. I can be a bit retarded at times. RIP all those steam games I had downloaded.
I don't get it. If you're going to format, that means you have a Windows installation drive. I also gave you instructions for booting into safe mode using a Windows installation drive. There's no reason you should have to reformat.
By format I mean going into recovery and removing all my files and reinstalling windows. No installiation drive required. My pc is a prebuilt.
![[Image: 6852ea3bf8b09b21ff0dda4a86bac606.jpg]](https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170702/6852ea3bf8b09b21ff0dda4a86bac606.jpg)
So i can't do that.
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(07-02-2017 01:20 PM)Hardcore Wrote: [ -> ]Both look identical to my eyes but I am pretty sure first one with lower timings is faster than the second one by about 10-20ms. I used humanbenchmark.com to test but difference is smaller than deviation error. In total going from 60 Hz on default timings to 76.979 Hz on lowest timings I think I god rid of about ~40 ms latency in total. Can you confirm which settings are better? Which polarity set is better in terms of lag? -/-? -/+? +/-? +/+?
The timing parameters have nothing to do with lag. Monitor lag can only happen if the monitor is buffering frames. I doubt that monitor has 40 ms of lag. If you can get 76.979 Hz without frame skipping, then the monitor probably has no lag other than pixel response times. Monitors that lag usually skip frames at higher refresh rates.
There's no need to mess with the timing parameters if it's working and you're not seeing artifacts or distortion. Higher numbers will just waste bandwidth and increase the likelihood of signal quality issues. Just make sure the vertical blanking/total is large enough so the video card can clock down when idle. I would just use the "LCD standard" timing parameters if that works.
(07-02-2017 01:20 PM)Hardcore Wrote: [ -> ]Maybe some settings are the best to be as low as possible and the other as high as possible and both of my sets of settings aren't the fastest ones possible for my monitor Philips 273EL(MonInfo log)? It has DVI-D and D-Sub sockets. I use DVI-D(Single Link) cable for my monitor. Is DVI-D is actually better(in terms of latency and overclocking abilities) than D-Sub?
For most monitors, the lag would be the same on all inputs. Overclocking can vary depending on the input, but that depends on the monitor.
(07-02-2017 01:20 PM)Hardcore Wrote: [ -> ]Also, I can go as high as 85 Hz(I have to use a little higher timings compared to my lowest values) and it 'works' fine without video artifacts, but once I go over 76.979 Hz, it starts to show a message from my monitor(on top of the working display behind the image) every ~1 minute for ~15 seconds saying:
Quote:Attention
This is 85 Hz overdrive
change computer display
input to 1920x1080 60 Hz
Is there any way I can do something to my monitor(like disassembling my monitor, taking out controller, patching few bits to not ever show any kind of menus) to never show this message? I believe I also read few years ago that it turns monitor off after 10 minutes of using monitor in this mode.
Unless you know how to hack the monitor's firmware, there's no way around that.
(07-02-2017 05:29 PM)atracks Wrote: [ -> ]By format I mean going into recovery and removing all my files and reinstalling windows. No installiation drive required. My pc is a prebuilt. So i can't do that.
Does your PC have a video card? What about onboard video? If your PC has both and you're using the video card, you can connect the monitor to the onboard video instead. That should allow you to see the screen and run reset-all.exe. You might have to change a setting in the BIOS/UFEI setup to make it use the onboard video instead of the video card.
(07-02-2017 04:59 PM)atracks Wrote: [ -> ]I don't even have any dots. It just immediately boots and gives me the message again.
When I had that problem(black screen because of badly set parameters in CRU/NVCP) for the first time, I just connected my video card to other PCIe slot, connected my monitor using another DVI socket on the video card, and connected to a D-Sub socket on the monitor(instead of default DVI), it recognized my monitor as a new one and I was able to continue to overclock my monitor.
Still, whenever I change PCIe slot, DVI slot on my video card or DVI>D-Sub, it recognize my monitor as a new one, so I have to overclock it in CRU again.
Another dumb 'hack' is to press reset few times right after windows starts to load. I assume you're on Windows 10. After it will fail to load 2 times in a row, it will show you something like this:
[Image:
http://www.digitalcitizen.life/sites/default/files/gdrive/win10_safe_mode/win10_safemode_12.png]
From that screen it should be easy enough to get to a safe mode:
http://www.digitalcitizen.life/4-ways-bo...windows-10
You don't have to erase your whole HDD. With that enthusiasm to erase your HDD you just might as well can buy new monitor or a whole rig.
Toasty, I think I found a bug. It was long time ago but that bug still exists.
In
Nvidia Control Panel I can set these parameters(
Sync Vert Width: 2,
Total Vert Pix: 1083):
![[Image: RkC3oF9.png]](https://i.imgur.com/RkC3oF9.png)
And my monitor works fine after I set, save and apply them.
But
CRU doesn't allow me to set
Total Vertical Pixels to
1083 when I set
Sync Vert Width to
2:
![[Image: EG23tlE.png]](https://i.imgur.com/EG23tlE.png)
I have to either set
Total Vertical Pixels to
1084 or
Sync Vert Width to
1 in order to be able to apply settings:
http://i.imgur.com/NNiG5xJ.png
http://i.imgur.com/hK1llco.png
Is this a bug or am I missing something?
Can you also please comment on this:
http://www.overclock.net/t/1372936/guide...-input-lag
I'm sure it works but can't prove it.
Hello, everyone just wanted to start off by saying that I am trying to upscale via gpu to my display. I saw a video on eurogamer explained by Richard Leadbutter about the process. However, everytime I select scale via GPU my tv will show purple & green coloring & then reset to display scaling. I am following his instructions to a tee but cant seem to get "pc checkerboard upscaling". If further infomation & pix are needed I will gladly provide them.